Today wake up is extremely relaxing. A lone ray of sun wake us up, lightly, and a smell coming from downstairs make our mouths water. We get up, with no rush, we do not even have to pack our things since we will sleep here again tonight.
We go downstairs in the dining hall which has an amazing glass wall on the beach and a table with everything on it is ready for us: marmelades, butter, black bread, eggs and bacon, croissant, cold cuts, chees, just everything one can ask of. It is a great start for the day!
We don’t let this breakfast cuddle us too much anyway, Helsingor, Hamlet’s city, is waiting for us, and soon after we are sitting in the car again.
“What you have never seen, you will find it where you have never been.”
We drive for an hour more or less in the meadows, sometimes following the daisy of the Marguerite Route, sometimes outside it, searching for some particular view. We get to Helsingor really fast: it is a city north of Copenhagen, divided by the twin city Helsinborg, in Sweden, just by a narrow canal.
We find a parking lot not without searching for it: it isn’t for the lack of free parks, but for the rules of the paying system, only written in danish and impossible to be guessed. Some car have tickets on the glass, some others not. We try to ask at some bartender and other tourists and decide in the end that it is saturday, a festive day, and we will not pay.
We start to walk within the town, among lots of little colourful houses in narrow streets, and suddenly a big group of majorette playing the flute is occupying the road. They are cheerful and happy, with their skirts and this cold wind. It should be quite a big festival but we cannot understand what is it about.
There is a chilled wind up here. We are on the eastern coast of Denmark, where it is separeted from Sweden just by a narrow channel and it is not a sunny day. Doesn’t matter the windcheater, a cold stream of air penetrate the jacket and we don’t stay too much in the open air, we aim straight to Hamlet’s castle.
There at the end of the road, behind the harbour, stands out the majestic Kronborg castle, aka the Elsinore castle where Shakespeare decided to set one of his most famous play, Hamlet.
Standing proud in the wind, before entering, is the danish flag, flowing alog with the non-stopping wind. Every tourist must pass under it while walking the old lift bridge, now a fixed and more secure one.
Once we get in we are plunged in a magical and misterious atmosphere: the inner garden is full of hidden speakers which make one live Hamlet’s story, with the sound of horses and incoming carriages, trumpets to trump the king, invisible chains shaken all around, such a real and almost scary dive in the play.
Before getting to the castle itself, between the two series of ramparts, there is a little steel copy of the castle, and the destructive Hulk comes out of me!
We get in the inner part of the castle, walking under the long arch which brings to the main square and we go exploring the courtyard. We get to the entrance of the castle, but a quick peek at the prices and at the waiting times for the next tour and we decide to bounce it. It’s a shame, we know it, but we have a lot to see in a limit amount of time, as of a limited budget, and we have to take decisions.
Once we leave the warm confort of the inner walls, we are out, in the wind, and we head to the guard bastion where the cannons are waiting, accurately maintained and still pointed towards the canal, to remind that the entrance is still guarded and danish people know how to defend themselves. Along with the cannons there is a strong and chilled wind which is waiting for us.
“Who travel choose wind as his job.”
We enjoy a long tour around the castle, both inside and outside the ramparts, wondering how life was at the time people lived here, not that much in the past. The king and his court, parties in the ballroom and official events. Our minds run fast, fast as our steps to fight the freezing air and warm ourselves up a little bit.
We exit the castle, a last goodbye by a carriage drawn by horses and trumpets in the ghost garden – it does seem to be among ancient ghosts! – and we go towards the harbour, just in front of us, where a shining statue pick our attention.
Gettin closer we make a big discovery: Denmark doesn’t only have a Mermaid, but also its shining male mate, making a big show of himself on the dock. We didn’t know about this recent fiancé and we will only discover once at home, that it was really made as a mate of the Mermaid of Copenhagen, named Han, an stainless stell statue only 3 years old, almost a century youger than his former girlfriend.
We run away from the dock and the harbour, the wind is really freezing. Now we can finally understand why people find Denmark expensive: you are required to enter a warm place often, and a hot chocolate here and a muffin, one wurstel and a glass of coke, and it is easy to spend a lot of money! I cannot guess how it can be in winter, I can only imagine how people spend every single cent they earn.
A little exploring tour of the city and then we walk to the car: our three hours of free parking – at least we guessed it so – are expiring and our tour has to finish.
Here we are, again sit in our car, heading to Dyrehaven, the park of the deers. Actually they are two parks with this name, one just outside Copenhagen, the bigger one, and another one West of Hillerod. It is this last one we are heading to. At first we drive South along the coast, and we pass in Louisiana, not the US State – we sent some picture to our friend, La McMusa, who will soon bring her student to Louisiana for a literary travel – a city named after a modern art museum dedicated to the founder, miss Louise.
We have a turn right, heading West now, onto a narrow curvy road which will bring us directly to destination. We stop in one of the hundreds of farms to watch some Icelandic ponys – we didn’t know Iceland is famous for its pony and the signs in english enlighten us! We are so fascinated about the slow life here which goes along with the rythms of nature and land day after day, season after season.
Suddenly, among a bent and another one in the woods – we have filmed something, we are trying to put it all together but it will take a while – three does cross the road just in front of us, running fast from one side to the other of the street, a first group in front of us and another just a car behind us.
We are abruply passed by the car which was behind us, maybe our sudden brake has bothered them, they are for sure more used to wildlife crossing suddenly and out of the blue!
Still enraptured by our quick encounter, we get to our destination: Dyrehaven.
Store Dyrehaven is a little rectangular wood bounded by four perpendicular roads, inside it there are eight paths which merge together in a central circular meadow, nothing particular but the green and silence and 360° nature sourounding you. Just the ordinary show of nature, so hard to be explained.
We have a long hour slowly walking through the trees and the wood, the meadows and the stunning green. It is hugely relaxin, with its total silence, it makes you feel really good.
Coming back, we decide to drive all along the northern coast and have a stop in Gilleleje, a little town which seems to be a typical fisherman village. We are right and as soon as we enter it we are among a reality composed by fish, nets, docks and fish shops.
We wander around to discover all the narrow streets of the town, the danish tatched roof houses, fish shops, docks and then we are so hungry. Actually, after our full breakfast this morning, we have just eat a muffin in one of our cold-stops.
We find a cute place where to eat a hamburger and we sit inside, shielded by the wind which continues to blow, nor lunch and neither dinner, something in between.
In the end, after a really relaxing day, packed with things done and seen, we are again home, at our base in Hundested, right on time to enjoy a wonderful sunset and the so called “blue hour”, on the beach, just steps away from our room.
“There seems to be in the man, as in the bird, a need for migration, a vital need to feel elsewhere.”
It’s night, not so late, but the day has been so full and long. We walked a lot, drove lot of kilometers, seen so much and our eyes and legs are so full.
We take our time and go to bed, but just before entering the room we got fascinated by the show we misses yesterday, due to a cloudy sky.
Outside the glass wall, thanks to the total lack of artificial light and the new moon, there is a sea of stars all for us. We sit on the puff in the common room, warmed by the duvets and the more we watch the more stars we see. We get asleep with this incredible picture in our minds.
Goodnight, tomorrow it will be time to visit Copenhagen.
This article is available : Italian